My resensie van Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane oor kaste


Smarag uretaan verf

Baie jare lank was die verf wat ek die meeste vir kaste gebruik het, altyd Pro Classic halfglans (akriel) van Sherwin Williams. Ek het goeie ervarings met hierdie produk gehad, maar een ding wat ek nog altyd nie van die verf hou nie, is dat dit maklik sak wanneer dit gespuit word. Ek het ook gevind dat die afwerking van Pro Classic effens sag en rubberagtig is. Ek wou opgradeer na 'n verf wat harder sou droog vir langdurige duursaamheid, veral vir gebruik op kaste.

Ek het onlangs Emerald uretaan gebruik om eikehoutkaste te verf en ek was baie tevrede met die resultate. Hierdie produk moet nie verwar word met die gewone Emerald-verf nie. Die uretaan-weergawe is 'n watergebaseerde, aangepaste alkied, wat die beste gebruik kan word op versiering, deure en kaste. Ek was eintlik skepties oor die gebruik van hierdie produk, want ek hou nie van die gewone Emerald-interieurverf nie, maar die twee verf is heeltemal anders.

Is die verfvlak goed?

As u kaste en deure spuit, moet u 'n verf wat gelyk is, gebruik. As 'n nie-egaliserende laag gebruik word, sal die materiaal nie oor die oppervlak lê nie, wat veroorsaak dat ongelyke ophoping van verf en onvolmaakthede presies droog word hoe dit lyk as dit op gespuit word.

Ek het geverfde eikehoutkaste met hierdie produk gespuit en gevind dat dit buitengewoon goed gelyk is oor twee geskuurde lae BIN-skulp-onderlaag. Die eerste laag het beter gelyk as die tweede laag. Ek het gevind dat die tweede laag swaarder gespuit moes word om die verf op te bou vir egalige gelykmaak. As u die tweede laag te vinnig bespuit, kan u tekstuur veroorsaak wat nie gelyk sal wees nie.

In vergelyking met die nivelleringskwaliteit van Pro Classic, het ek gevind dat Emerald urethane dieselfde, indien nie beter nie, sal presteer. Ek het die deure van die kabinet horisontaal gespuit en geberg met behulp van die Rack Painter-rakke en die verf gelyk op die deure sonder enige druppels.

Ek moet ook noem dat ek die Aqua Coat-graanvuller gebruik voordat ek eikehoutkaste met hierdie verf verf en verf. Die vuller, gekombineer met twee lae van onderlaag en verf elk, behaal 'n baie gladde afwerking.

Verf hardheid

Een van die redes waarom ek hierdie produk op kaste wou probeer, is omdat dit veronderstel is om harder te droog as basiese verf, en die gebruik van 'n uretaanverf sou die oppervlak duurder maak vir skoonmaak. Dit is nie nodig om die verf met 'n helder laag te bedek nie.

Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane droog merkbaar harder as Pro Classic. Die verf is nie lekker of sag as dit eers genees is nie. As ek kasdeure verwyder om dit te spuit, nommer ek die agterkant en plak 'n klein stukkie blou band daaroor. Dit was moeilik om die band van die deure af te haal. Ek moes die band versigtig skraap om dit uit die gedroogde verf te kry.

Die verflaagtyd vir hierdie verf is vier uur. Die verf was in ongeveer daardie tyd droog. Die laaste verflaag is tussen vier en ses uur droog. Ek het die deure 'n paar dae op my droograkke in my werkruimte laat sit voordat ek dit toegedraai en by my klant afgelewer het vir installasie.

Ek het gevind dat die verf merkbaar moeiliker aanraakbaar was nadat twee dae verby was, en die vingernaaltoets geslaag het. Die verfafwerking self voel harder as ander verf wat ek gebruik het. Ek het die geverfde deure in bewegende komberse toegedraai en dit sonder probleme by my klant afgelewer.

Die halfglansafwerking

Ek het die halfglans-afwerking op die kaste wat ek geverf het, gebruik. 'N Satyn- en glansafwerking is ook beskikbaar. My Sherwin Williams-winkel het die semi-glans-afwerking vir kaste aanbeveel omdat hulle gesê het die satyn-afwerking is te dof. Die semi-glans afwerking van Emerald urethane is soortgelyk aan Pro Classic halfglans, maar miskien 'n bietjie meer glansend.

Ek het aanlyn klagtes gelees deur mense wat sê dat die halfglans-afwerking dof was, maar volgens my was twee lae halfglans oor twee lae BIN-skulp-onderlaag die perfekte glans vir kaste. Selfs die eerste laag lyk baie blink, maar die tweede laag lyk nog beter. Die halfglans-afwerking is baie glad, ideaal om te was.

Die prys

Na my mening is dit kranksinnig te duur. Die gewone prys vir Emerald Urethane-emalje begin by $ 89 per liter. Ja, dit is $ 89 per liter sonder afslag, of koepons. As u kaste verf, sal u in elk geval net twee tot drie liter benodig, maar tog is dit baie geld vir verf.

As u nog nie 'n gevestigde winkelrekening het met afslagpryse vir verf nie, kry Sherwin Williams die afgelope jaar 30% tot 40% afslag op verfverkope, wat baie geld bespaar as u geduldig is en wag vir die volgende uitverkoping. U kan ook 'n Pro-rekening in u plaaslike Sherwin Williams-winkel aanvra om afslagpryse te kry.

Ek beveel ook aan om aan te meld vir hul Paint Perks-opsie om koeponkodes op verf en benodigdhede per sms te kry. Ek kry weekliks kennisgewings vir afslagaanbiedings.

Is Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane die moeite werd?

Ek het hierdie produk nog net een keer op kaste gebruik, maar tot dusver is ek baie tevrede met die resultate. As iets verander, sal ek hierdie resensie opdateer. Ek kan nie kommentaar lewer oor die werking daarvan vir borsel- en roltoediening nie, aangesien ek dit net met 'n luglose spuit gespuit het, maar om te spuit, word die verf baie goed en droog dit harder as ander verf wat ek gebruik het.

Na my ervaring sak hierdie verf nie maklik op vertikale oppervlaktes nie, anders as Pro Classic, wat 'n nagmerrie kan wees om mee te werk as u nie versigtig is nie. Ek het twee dik lae Emerald op kaste se muurkaste gespuit en geen probleme gehad met drup verf nie. Die verf is vlakker, maar hou vas sonder om te sak, waarvan ek baie hou.

Hierdie verf ruik soos Play Doh. 'N Masker is beslis nodig wanneer u met hierdie produk werk, veral as u spuit. Die reuk talm vir 'n rukkie, waarskynlik as gevolg van die alkydverandering.

Ek kan nie kommentaar lewer oor hoe hierdie produk vergelyk word met verf soos Cabinet Coat of Break-Through nie, aangesien ek nog nie daardie produkte gebruik het nie, maar in vergelyking met ander verfverf wat ek van Sherwin Williams gebruik het, is dit 'n goeie opgradering. . Die volle prys van $ 89 per liter is te duur, dus maak beslis gebruik van die beskikbare afslagopsies.

Vrae en antwoorde

Vraag: Ek het 'n paar resensies gelees dat Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane verf lank neem om droog te word / te genees. Hoe was u ervaring hierin? Kan ontlasting ook skuur vervang?

Antwoord: Die droë tyd is nie sleg nie. Die herdekkingstyd is vier uur, maar dit hang alles af van die lugtemperatuur. Die eerste laag het ongeveer ses uur geneem om droog te word, want ek het die deure in my motorhuis gespuit en dit was warm en vogtig. Die tweede laag het in ongeveer drie uur gedroog. Die verf droog die volgende dag hard. Nee, jy moet altyd skuur.

Vraag: Aangesien Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane 'n mengsel is, watter reduksie moet ek gebruik vir hierdie verfverf vir 'n spuit?

Antwoord: As u na dunner verwys, hoef u hierdie verf nie vir 'n luglose spuit te verdun nie; dit spuit fyn uit die blikkie. U moet dit verdun as u 'n HVLP-spuit gebruik, maar ek weet nie wat die verhouding is of wat om te gebruik nie, aangesien ek dit nog nie met die produk hoef te doen nie. Ek beveel aan om u Sherwin Williams-winkel te kontak vir 'n aanbeveling.

Vraag: Skuur jy tussen verfjasse? Ek het beide ja en nee gelees, as u watter korrel gebruik, gebruik u?

Antwoord: Ja, ek skuur tussen die onderlaag en een keer voor ek dit verf. Ek gebruik gewoonlik 220 korrels.

Vraag: Ons het die kombuiskaste geverf (gespuit met 2 lae) met 'n SW-satynoliebasis met kilz as onderlaag. Die verf het geskei en na 30 dae het die verf tot op die kilz afgekrap toe twee deure aanmekaar stamp. SW het hierdie uretaanverf voorgestel. Volgens hulle moet die oliebasisverf geskuur word en die uretaan gespuit word. Wat dink u oor die verf wat aan die oliebasisverf kleef?

Antwoord: Die verf skil omdat dit nie aan die onderlaag kleef nie, en die onderlaag waarskynlik ook nie aan die oppervlak kleef nie. As u latex Kilz-onderlaag gebruik het, is dit die rede. Dit kan ook wees dat die olieverf wat u gebruik het nie versoenbaar is met die onderlaag nie, of dat die oppervlak nie korrek voorberei is deur skoon te maak en te skuur nie. Die olieverf moenie afkrap nie. Skildery daaroor kan nie die probleem regstel nie. Stroop die mislukte kabinetverf en onderlaag tot by die kaal hout en begin weer. Maak die kaste skoon en skuur, maak dit met OIL-onderlaag soos Cover Stain, of skulp-onderlaag soos BIN en smeer twee lae Emerald uretaan aan.

Vraag: Ek het 'n klein laaifront wat met harde esdoorn gemaak moet word. Is daar 'n onderlaag in 'n spuitkannetjie waarmee u sukses het?

Antwoord: Sherwin Williams Pro Block, Zinsser Cover Stain, of BIN, is goeie opsies. Al drie is in 'n spuitkannetjie beskikbaar. Die Sherwin Williams-onderlaag kan jy net by hul winkels koop, maar die ander twee word aanlyn en by die meeste huisverbeteringswinkels verkoop.

Vraag: Kan ek die BIN-skulp-onderlaag met die smaragdemalje bo-oor gebruik? Dankie

Antwoord: Ja. Ek skep kaste met BIN-skulp en verf dit met smarag uretaan.

Vraag: Hoe lank moet hierdie verf neem om te genees? Ek het dit op sommige boekrakke gebruik.

Antwoord: Die verf word ongeveer 4 tot 6 uur droog, maar die droogtyd hang af van humiditeit en lugtemperatuur. Die verf word 'n dag of wat na die toediening verhard. Ek sou 'n paar dae of langer wag voordat ek boeke of iets swaars op die vars verf geplaas het.

Vraag: Ons het pas 'n kwotasie gekry vir ons kombuis met die presiese verf. Hierdie man vra $ 100 per kasdeur en laai. (Ons het ook 'n paar groot muurareas wat geverf sal word, maar is by hierdie prys ingesluit). Ons het altesaam 37 kasdeure en laaie. Lyk dit 'n billike prys wat verf en arbeid insluit? Waardeer u mening.

Antwoord: Ja, ek dink die prys klink billik. Die verf en voorbereiding van kaste is baie tydrowend en 37 deure is 'n groot kombuis.

Vraag: Het u enige ander kleure as wit saam met hierdie Sherwin Williams-verf gebruik? Ek kom agter dat die swart verf nie behoorlik uithard nie en die skraaptoets nie met my vingernaald geslaag het nie. Ek het die wit gebruik en dit is geen probleem binne 'n dag nie. Die swart wat ek het, kom tussen die jasse uit.

Antwoord: Ja, ek het hierdie produk in donkerder kleure gebruik. Donker kleure, veral swart, is baie meer getinte. Hoe meer tint, hoe langer neem dit voordat die emalje uithard, sodat die afwerking langer sagter sal wees. Laat die verf droog word. U kan ook deurstoppers aan die binnekant van die deure heg, sodat die vars verf nie aanmekaar kleef as die deure toe is nie. Heg dit ook aan die laaie. U kan ook die deure vir 'n dag of twee oop laat.

Vraag: Ek het eikehoutkaste met 'n uitstekende vorm en ek wil dit verf. Ek beplan om Sherwin Williams-bindmiddel en smarag te gebruik (die sye is laminaat). Gaan dit sleg skilder?

Antwoord: Die laminaatkante lyk gladder as die eikehoutgedeelte wanneer dit geverf word. Moenie latex-onderlaag op die kaste gebruik nie. Vul met olie-onderlaag, of BIN. Die Extreme Bond-onderlaag is goed as die kaste al geverf is.

Vraag: Ek hou van Sherin Williams Emerald Urethane vir kaste, maar het dit net geborsel en gerol. Ek het 'n klein spuit wat uitgedun moet word. Maak die uitdunning van hierdie verf dit minder duursaam? Is dit belangrik om dit met 'n helder laag te bedek?

Antwoord: Oorverdunning kan die glans van die afwerking verminder, dus ja, te veel dunner kan duursaamheid verminder as die afwerking minder glad en minder wasbaar is. As u die spesifikasies vir die verlengstuk wat u gebruik, volg en 'n klein hoeveelheid byvoeg vir wat aanbeveel word, sal 'n glansverlaging nie opmerklik wees nie. Die verf alleen is wasbaar sonder 'n duidelike laag, maar jy kan dit verf.

Vraag: Ek wil my kombuiskaste grys verf op onvoltooide eikehout, kan ek die Sherwin Williams Emerald semi-glans as 'n deklaag gebruik of werk dit net op wit geverfde kaste?

Antwoord: Die kaste moet eers skoongemaak, geskuur en gegrond word, dan kan u dit grys verf met Emerald.

Vraag: Die opstel om 'n finale laag van hierdie produk te spuit op 'n werk waarvoor die ander ouens ontslaan is omdat hulle hacks is. Net nuuskierig of u dit vir hvlp verminder het of as u 'n afgewerkte punt en 'n luglose gebruik het. Ons het hierdie nog nie gebruik nie?

Antwoord: As ek kaste spuit, gebruik ek 'n Graco 210 FFLP-punt (groen) met my luglose. 'N Tip van 310 is ook goed, maar minder oorspuit met die 210. U hoef nie Emerald uretaan te verminder met lugloos nie. Ek het hierdie produk nog nooit deur 'n HVLP gespuit nie, maar u sal beslis die verf moet verminder.

Vraag: Is daar 'n spesifieke kleur wit wat u kies vir kaste met die semi-glans? Spuit jy ook die binnekant van die kaste en die rakke vir hierdie projekte as jy werk doen? Laaste vraag, wat is die beste DIY verf verfspuit vir hierdie verf?

Antwoord: Op kaste het ek verskeie blankes van Sherwin Williams gebruik. Sommige blankes wat ek gebruik het, is Snowbound, West Highland White, Creamy en Extra White. Ek spuit gewoonlik slegs die binnekant van die kaste as daar glasdeure is, of as my kliënt dit versoek. Ek gebruik Graco-spuittoerusting en beveel die handelsmerk beslis aan. Ek het eintlik 'n artikel geskryf oor die spuit wat ek gebruik.

Vraag: Watter basiskleur het jy gebruik vir Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel? Ek probeer besluit op hierdie webwerf: https: //www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/produc ...

Antwoord: Ek het die kleur Snowbound van Sherwin Williams gebruik. Hierdie kleur het 'n ekstra wit basis. As u na die kleur onder die verf verwys, vul ek al my kaste met BIN-skulp-onderlaag, wat wit is.

Vraag: Watter spuit het jy gebruik sonder om hierdie produk te verdun? Ek het dit al een keer gebruik, maar moes verdun om dit behoorlik deur die srpayer te kry.

Antwoord: Ek spuit smarag uretaan deur my Graco 495 luglose spuit, met 'n maat 212 FFLP punt (groen kleur). Dit spuit fyn deur my spuit sonder verdunning.

Vraag: Watter onderlaag het u saam met Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane gebruik en moes u daarna 'n verseëlaar aanwend?

Antwoord: Ek gebruik BIN shellac-onderlaag. My plaaslike Sherwin Williams-winkel het my aangeraai om nie seëlaar oor hierdie produk te spuit nie.

Vraag: Stuur jy tussen lae verf? Ek doen twee lae onderlaag en skuur tussen hulle. As ek verwag om 3 lae verf te verf, moet ek tussen die 1ste en 2de verflaag skuur?

Antwoord: Ek skuur gewoonlik net tussen lae onderlaag en tussen die laaste laag onderlaag en die eerste laag verf. As ek iets in die verf vassteek (stof, krummels, ens.), Sal ek tussen lae verf skuur. As u tussen lae verf skuur, maak seker dat u 'n fyn korrel gebruik, anders laat u baie maklik krapmerke in die verf. Gebruik 'n skuurspons van 320 gruis vir besonderhede.

Vraag: Ek het 'n paar kabinetdeure 'n bietjie te swaar met die smaragdverf gespuit en sommige van hulle moet weer geverf word. Is dit verfsand reg tussen die lae, of moet ek dit weer afstroop en verf?

Antwoord: Ja, smarag uretaan skuur goed deur nat skuur. Week 'n skuurspons in warm water en skuur die verf saggies om dit te verwyder.

Vraag: U noem 'n wenk van 210 en 212 in u antwoorde. Watter grootte skiet die emerald-uretaanversieringsemalje die beste? Het net 'n toets met 'n 314 gedoen en daar is klein gaatjies en vlekke na die eerste laag. Miskien moet ek die druk verhoog?

Antwoord: Ek het eintlik 'n 208-wenk begin gebruik. Ek het lank 'n 210-punt gebruik, maar die kleiner opening van die 208 gee my beter resultate. Die klein gaatjies spuit te dun in kolle. Verhoog u druk en spuit die deure met 'n paar ligte en vinnige passe. Dit lyk aanvanklik dalk te lig as u vinnig spuit, maar die emalje lê na 'n paar minute uit en lyk dikker as wanneer u dit aantrek. Dit maak dit aanvanklik moeilik om mee te werk. U wil net genoeg emalje spuit sodat dit eweredig bedek is. Dan sal jy nie meer die gaatjies kry nie. U kan ook te ver van die oppervlak af spuit.

Vraag: As ek kaste spuit, kry ek lugborrels, hoekom?

Antwoord: Lugborrels kan om verskeie redes ontstaan. U het nie genoem wanneer die borrels vorm of die tipe spuit waarmee u spuit nie. Klein borrels vorm dadelik as jy 'n te dun laag van die laag spuit. Dit gebeur om die een of ander rede meer op die tweede laag. Die emalje is dik en kan nie uitgelê word sonder die regte dikte nie. Borrels kan ook vorm as daar lug binne-in u spuitlyn is, as u aanvaar dat u 'n luglose spuit gebruik. Nog 'n moontlike rede is besoedeling binne-in die spuitleiding, of op die oppervlak wat u spuit. Maak seker dat u die spuitmiddel regtig goed met skoon water uitgespoel het voordat u die emalje spuit. Sorg dat die oppervlak ook skoon is. Bespuiting te dik kan ook probleme veroorsaak. As die verf te swaar gespuit word, begin die oppervlak skuif voordat die verf dieper onder droog is, sodat dit bo-af vergas en lugborrels skep. Dit kan ook te droog wees in die kamer.

Vraag: As ons al graan gevul het en BIN-onderlaag rol, gooi ons dan eers af of nadat dit gevul is? ook wou ons SW hoë reflekterende wit in die emerald emalje hê, maar hulle het gesê hulle het 'n hoë vel wit wat die basis in die blik is. Het u al vantevore hierdie kleur as 'n deklaag gebruik?

Antwoord: Ek smeer gewoonlik aan voordat ek die eerste laag onderlaag spuit. As u 'n tweede onderlaag aanwend, kan u net tussen die lae gebruik. Ek hou daarvan om die kalfateren te vul om dit in te seël, maar selfs as u na die priming gegiet het, is dit goed. Ja, High Hide White is die basiskleur vir hierdie emalje voordat tint gevoeg word. Die basiskleur was voorheen ekstra wit, maar hulle het dit verander na High Hide White, wat effens anders is. Die basiskleur is helder wit. Ek het al kaste met net die basiskleur gespuit, maar die meeste van my klante het 'n wit kleur. Ek het Snowbound al baie gebruik.

Vraag: Ek maak my nou gereed om my voorbereide kaste nou hiermee te verf en wil seker maak dat ek nie die rug ruïneer deur nie lank genoeg te wag voordat ek dit omdraai nie. My droogrek is 'n leer met PVC-pype wat deur die trappe loop. Onderlaag 1 word ongeveer 4 uur droog. Moet ek 'n tweede laag aanwend en tussen 4-6 uur of oornag gaan kyk voordat ek dit omdraai om die front te begin?

Antwoord: U moet hulle waarskynlik oornag verhard voordat u dit omdraai. Alhoewel die verf binne 4 tot 6 uur droog is om aan te raak, sal die verf sag wees en maklik verswelg. Plaas sagte lappe of handdoeke onder die deure om die verf te beskerm.

Vraag: Toe ek dit gebruik, het ek gevind dat dit in koeler temps baie beter gevaar het. Ek het dit ook in die somer in 'n warm motorhuis gebruik. Dit was baie moeiliker om die gewenste afwerking te kry. Het u in die hitte van die somer probleme ondervind met Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane? Het u, die skrywer van die artikel, eikehoutkorrels al ooit met kliphard gevul?

Antwoord: Nee, maar temperatuur speel 'n rol in die afwerking en droogtyd. Die blootstelling van nat verf aan hoë hitte en humiditeit is nie goed nie. Ek het Durham se Rock Hard-stopverf gebruik om gate aan kaste se deure te herstel, maar nie as graanvuller nie. Die stopverf is baie moeilik om te skuur. Ek sou nie probeer om dit as graanvuller te gebruik nie. Om die stopverf van 20 plus kasdeure en -kosyne af te skuur, is 'n nagmerrie, selfs met 'n elektriese skuurmasjien. Gewone verbinding, of Aqua Coat, werk uitstekend en skuur maklik.

Vraag: U het die kaste se deure plat gespuit. Hoe het u die kaste se rame geverf? Het jy die binnekant van die bokse geverf?

Antwoord: Ja, ek verwyder kasdeure en spuit dit van die werf af en lê plat op 'n spuitrak wat my toelaat om die deur om te draai sodat ek albei kante in een sessie kan spuit. Die deure word op 'n droograk geberg met geboë stawe wat nie direk met die nat verf kontak maak nie. Ek spuit nie die binnekant van die kabinette nie, tensy daar glasdeure is waar die binnekant sigbaar is. Die kabinetsopeninge is met plastiek bedek sodat alles gespuit kan word. Ek borsel en rol nie kaste nie. Alles word gespuit, ook die onderlaag.

Vraag: Watter onderlaag moet ek gebruik vir Kraftmaid-fabrieksverf- en noodkassies? Ek is nie seker of oliebasis-onderlaag sal werk nie, want ek weet nie watter soort verf Kraftmaid gebruik nie. Dit is onmoontlik om alles tot hout te skuur, gegewe die hoeveelheid besonderhede hierin.

Antwoord: Om die fabrieksgeverfde kaste met olie-onderlaag te skuur en aan te vul voordat dit die nuwe verf aangebring word, moet goed wees, maar dit is 'n goeie idee om ook met die vervaardiger te skakel om na te gaan of die produkte verenigbaar is.

Vraag: Kan ek 'n antieke glans oor Sherwin Williams se smaragd semi-glans (ek het antieke wit gebruik) gebruik, en indien wel, kan ek dit met 'n laag poliuretaan verseël?

Antwoord: Dit kan u wel, maar my plaaslike Sherwin Williams-winkel het dit afgeraai toe ek geglasuur het op een van my kabinetprojekte omdat hulle nie seker was oor die verenigbaarheid tussen Emerald uretaan en die boonste lae van hul Faux Impressions-glans en poly nie. U kan hieroor met u plaaslike SW-winkel praat, maar as u dit verglas, moet u seker maak dat die Emerald heeltemal genees is voordat u die glans aanbring. Ek sal dit ook eers aan een deur toets voordat ek alles verglas. U sal beslis poli oor die glans wil aanwend, aangesien die glans alleen nie duursaam genoeg is vir kaste nie.

Vraag: Die man in die winkel het vir my gesê dat ek nie nodig het om met hierdie produk aan te vul nie, is dit waar?

Antwoord: Of u die primer benodig, hang af van die oppervlak wat u verf. Smarag uretaanemalje moet nie direk op ongeverfde hout toegedien word sonder om eers met primer-sealer skoon te maak, te skuur en aan te vul nie. As u oor 'n voorheen geverfde oppervlak of vooraf vervaardigde hout verf, kan u die oppervlak net skoonmaak, sand skuur en die emalje aanwend. As die ou in die winkel gesê het dat hierdie produk sonder onderlaag toegepas kan word, maak nie saak wat nie, hy is verkeerd.

Vraag: Ek het die Emerald Urethane verf op my kaste gebruik, hoe lank moet ek wag voordat ek die deure ophang?

Antwoord: Laat die deure en kosyne droog word voordat u dit installeer.

Vraag: Ek het die kaste met die smaragdkleurige lae oor 2 lae onderlaag geverf, nou 2 dae later vee die verf af op plekke waar water gebruik is om skoon te maak. Hoe lank neem dit om skoon te maak?

Antwoord: U het nie gespesifiseer watter soort onderlaag op die kaste gebruik word nie, en of die oppervlak skoongemaak en geskuur is nie. Die beste onderlaag is olie, of wit skulp (BIN). As u latex-onderlaag gebruik, is dit waarskynlik 'n rede waarom die afwerking swak is en vryf. U maak ook die kaste skoon te gou nadat u dit geverf het. Die verf is eers sag en moet nog harder word voordat u dit met water kan skoonmaak. Verf neem goed dertig dae om heeltemal te genees. U moet minstens 'n paar weke wag voordat u die vars verf met water afvee. Nadat ek al baie met hierdie produk gewerk het, vermoed ek dat die verf so afvee, waarskynlik die gevolg is van die blootstelling van die vars verf aan water, of dat die verkeerde onderlaag gebruik is. As u nie ook geskuur het nie, kon die oppervlak te glad en glansend gewees het, en dit kon tot die probleem bygedra het.

Vraag: Ek verf my eikehout kombuiskaste. Ons het hulle bedek met vlek, maar ons het die fout gemaak om in 'n direkte son met 'n kwas en roller te doen. Ons het 2 lae onderlaag te swaar gedoen en nou lyk die afwerkingsarea verskriklik. Ons moes soos mal skuur, maar die gedetailleerde afwerking lyk sleg, maar sleg is nogal lekker. Ek is verlore en weet nie wat om te doen nie?

Antwoord: U moet Cover Stain oornag laat droog voordat u dit skuur, anders is dit sag en skuur dit nie so maklik nie. Die onderlaag van olie neem langer tyd om te genees. Sodra u dit laat droog word, skuur die onderlaag regtig mooi tot 'n fyn poeier. In u geval moet u meer tyd gee om uithard te maak omdat dit te swaar toegedien is. Gebruik 'n skuurspons om dit te skuur.

Vraag: Ek het 'n latex-onderlaag op eikehoutkaste gebruik en dit bloei deur twee lae onderlaag. Kan ek Emerald Urethane verf gebruik om die kleur van die kaste te verander?

Antwoord: Latex-onderlaag verseël nie hout om deurvloeiing te voorkom nie en bind nie goed aan houtkaste nie. Dit is ook te sag. Olie-onderlaag, of BIN-skulp-onderlaag, is albei goeie keuses om bloeding te voorkom en 'n sterk band met die oppervlak en verf te kry. Stroop die latex-onderlaag van die kaste af en vul dit met olie-onderlaag, of BIN. As u Emerald oor die latex verf, sal dit niks help nie. Die latex-onderlaag is die probleem.

Vraag: Ek het beide Graco X7 en Ultra met die hand. Watter puntgrootte het volgens u die beste werk om u verf te spuit?

Antwoord: Ek gebruik Graco FFLP wenke. Grootte 208 en 210 is die beste.

Vraag: Kan u die smaragd-uretaanverf met 'n watergebaseerde poliuretaan vul? Ek het die satyn-afwerking gebruik en dit is heeltemal te plat vir my smaak.

Antwoord: U het genoem of u die kaste met twee lae of net een laag geverf het. Twee lae is gladder en gladder as een. Ek het nie poliuretaan oor hierdie produk gebruik nie. Ek is seker dit sal goed wees, maar die deursigtige laag kan soms die kleur van die verf effens verander, of dit geel maak. Al is dit duidelik, het die film 'n bietjie kleur.

Vraag: Het u enige suksesse of uitdagings gehad met die gebruik van Sherwin Williams se Emerald Urethane in donkerder kleure (bv. Donkerblou, donker grys)?

Antwoord: Ja, ek het hierdie produk in donkergrys op kaste gespuit sonder enige uitdagings.

Vraag: Ek gebruik 'n Nova 390. Ek het twee lae SW Extreme Bond latex onderlaag en 2 lae saam met die SW Emerald Urethane op rou deure gedoen. Ek het tussen die lae geskuur vir druppels en oorbespuiting. My ligte vulling met 1500 papier het op sommige plekke in 220 papier geskuur en my super gladde oppervlak is nou dof. Moet ek lig tussen die lae onderlaag skuur / dof, of moet ek 2 lae spuit en dan liggies skuur / dof?

Antwoord: Op rou deure sou ek met BIN, of olie-onderlaag, gegolf het. Skuur tussen die eerste en tweede van die onderlaag en voordat u die eerste verflaag spuit. Ek gebruik 'n spons van 220 gruis. U hoef net sand te skuur. Dit gee u 'n gladder afwerking en verwyder rommel wat in die onderlaag vassit.

Vraag: Ek is tussen dieselfde stappe met dieselfde produkte en ek het u goeie boodskap raakgeloop. Ek het die deure in plek geborsel met 'n twee lae lae, wat ek van plan is om vir die houtkorrel te skuur, maar ek sien dat die vullis nie so hoog bou soos ek gewoond was nie. Is dit duursaam om 'n vulmiddel tussen die vullis en die smeer van uretaan te spuit?

Antwoord: Ja, u kan die korrel vul nadat u dit gevul het met BIN, maar die vulsel moet gevul word om dit te verseël. As u vulmiddel na BIN toedien, trek die vulmiddel houttannien soms deur die eerste grondlaag. Daarom is dit altyd die beste, ten minste vir my, om eers die graan te vul, sand en twee lae te vul om die probleme te voorkom. Twee lae BIN gee u 'n beter bouvorm en 'n beter seël, plus dat u verf die beste presteer oor twee prima lae. Om die deure te verwyder en plat te lê vir vulling, is ook beter om die graan uit te gelyk en nie op te hang nie.

Vraag: Ek lê SW Emerald Urethane met 'n Home Right Super Finish Max HLVP-geweer neer met hul Green Tip (2.0mm). Die probleem wat ek het, is dat die verf spoeg, nie spuit nie, ongeag watter vloeitempo ek gebruik. Vanweë die baie goeie gelykmaak-eienskappe van die verf is die afwerking nie sleg nie, maar ook nie glad nie. Die geweer het twee ander punte, 1,5 mm en 4,0 mm. Wat kan ek doen om die spoeg te stop?

Antwoord: Ek ken nie die spuit wat u gebruik nie. Ek gebruik 'n luglose Graco-spuit. Smarag uretaan is dik en sal waarskynlik verdun moet word om deur u HVLP-spuit te beweeg. Dit is waarskynlik die rede dat dit gereeld spoeg. U kan die emalje verdun. Gaan u spuit na vir verstoppings.

Vraag: As u 'n drup natmaak of hardloop, skuur u dit dan tot by die onderlaag? En spuit dit dan, raak dit op met 'n kwas of 'n roller?

Antwoord: Skuur die drup totdat dit gelyk is met die oppervlak. U hoef dit nie tot die onderlaag te maal nie. Raak die oppervlak op dieselfde manier as waarop u die verf aangebring het (spuit, kwas, roller, ens.). Op hierdie manier sal die aanraking beter inpas. As u 'n gespuite oppervlak met 'n kwas aanraak, pas dit nie in by die omliggende afwerking nie.

Vraag: Gebruik u die Emerald-emalje of versieringsemalje, of is daar 'n verskil?

Antwoord: Ek gebruik emalje van Emerald-uretaanversiering. Hierdie produk is ideaal vir deure, kaste en versierings.

Vraag: Kan u emalje met uretaanversiering gebruik om krytverf te verseël?

Antwoord: Smarag uretaan is nie 'n seëlaar nie. As u u krytverf wil seël, sal u die laag met 'n onderlaag seëlaar bedek en 'n goeie kleeflaag vir die afwerkingsemalje bo-op bied.

Vraag: Kan u lopies of gebreke aan kaste skuur?

Antwoord: Ja, die beste manier om lopies te skuur, is om hulle nat te skuur met 'n skuurspons wat met warm water geweek is. Laat die verf oornag droog word, sodat dit gladder skuur sonder om 'n inkeping in die verf te laat. Soms, as u te vinnig loop, sal dit afbreek of oopskeur. Dan moet jy dit plak. Hierdie produk nat in my ervaring baie goed.

Vraag: Ek beplan om laminaatkaste te verf, beveel u 'n onderlaag aan?

Antwoord: Ja, u moet beslis die laminaatkaste vullis. Ek sal Zinsser BIN-onderlaag gebruik. Dit werk uitstekend op verskeie oppervlaktes, insluitend laminaat. Dit is ook uitstekend om te spuit. Die onderlaag is baie dun en laat 'n gladde afwerking as dit deur 'n luglose spuit of 'n HVLP gespuit word.

Vraag: As ek my lelike geel / oranje eikehoutkaste gaan vlek, met sandpapier, gebruik ek dit om nie in die hout te krap nie. Moet ek ook 'n toplaag poliuretaan aanwend?

Antwoord: Ek sal nie harder as 120-korrel word nie. Ek hou daarvan om 150-korrel te gebruik vir die eerste skuur om die helder laag te verwyder, en dan gebruik ek 220-korrel tussen die lae. As u growwer as 220-korrel tussen die lae inwerk, sal u waarskynlik krapmerke in die verf sien. U hoef nie 'n helder laag aan te wend nie, maar wel. Die verf is wasbaar. Ek gebruik die satynafwerking baie.

Vraag: Gebruik u graanvullers voordat u verf om die gladde afwerking te kry?

Antwoord: Ja, wanneer ek eikehoutkaste met Emerald-uretaan verf, gebruik ek die graanvuller waarna ek gekoppel het in my artikel, wat my volledige oorsig oor die produk bevat.

Vraag: watter kleur het jy in die Emerald Urethane wit of ekstra wit vel gebruik?

Antwoord: Ek het verskillende kleure met Emerald urethane gebruik, waaronder Hi Hide White, wat een van die basiskleure is (geen tint nie) vir hierdie produk wat die Extra White-basis vervang.

Vraag: Het u BIN-skulp-gebaseerde onderlaag of sintetiese skulp gebruik? Is daar 'n verskil? Is dit vlambaar?

Antwoord: Ek gebruik die gewone BIN shellac-onderlaag (vlambaar), nie die sintetiese weergawe nie, wat op akrylhars gebaseer is op water. Ek het nog nooit sintetiese BIN gebruik nie, maar ek het gehoor dat dit nie dieselfde werk as gewone BIN nie. Omdat ek 'n onderlaag op waterbasis is, sal ek huiwerig wees om die sintetiese weergawe as 'n oppervlakseëlaar en onderlaag vir u verf te gebruik. Is dit vlambaar? Waarskynlik nie, aangesien dit op water gebaseer is, maar ek is eerlikwaar nie seker of daar vlambare chemikalieë met die produk gemeng word nie. Die spuit wat u gebruik, moet verseël word om vlambare materiaal soos die oorspronklike BIN-skulp-onderlaag, of olie-onderlaag, veilig te spuit. U kan oorweeg om 'n professionele verseëlde spuit te huur wat brandbare materiaal veilig kan spuit, of een koop.

Vraag: Ek spuit Emerald op sommige kaste. 2 kleure, Satyn. Die hoofkleur is SW Snowbound, en die eilandkleur is SW City Shadow (grys). Na 2 lae was die grys botterglad, die spierwit, nie soseer nie. Ek het verskillende wenke probeer, verskillende dunner verhoudings, verskillende stand-opstellings, sonder om die wit Emerald se gevoel te verskil. Enige wenke?

Antwoord: Emerald uretaan lê mooi op sy eie uit sonder om te verdun, maar as die glans van die satyn dof en nie glad lyk nie, is dit moontlik dat u dit te veel uitgedun en verdun het. As u te veel verlengmiddel of water byvoeg, verdof die glans. Die satynafwerking moet effens glansend en glad wees. 'N Ander oorweging is die onderlaag wat gebruik is. Dit speel 'n rol in hoe u verfafwerking vertoon. Die kaste moes ook noukeurig skoongemaak en geskuur word voordat u dit fynmaak en verf.

Vraag: Which would you recommend for durability and less yellowing: oil-based pro classic or emerald urethane? I will be doing Alabaster on hickory cabinets. Also, with bin do I need to use grain filler?

Antwoord: Oil-based enamel will yellow over time, so I would go with Emerald urethane. It doesn't yellow. You only need grain filler if the wood is grainy like oak. If you only need to fill holes, or damaged areas, use wood filler.

Vraag: I am using this paint on a large bookshelf. I used the oil-based primer (2 coats) and the emerald paint. This is in my home schoolroom and the shelves will be used heavily. How long should I wait after painting before I can start piling books on my shelves?

Antwoord: I would wait a few days before putting your books back onto the shelves. The paint takes a day or two to harden.

Mack on August 30, 2020:

310 and 210 let the same amount of material through. A 310 gives a 6" fan and a 210 gives a 4" fan. Double the first number and that equals the fan size at 12" away. The second two numbers are the orifice size.

Mack on August 30, 2020:

*successfully convert, not successfully complete covert, lol. My phone's auto correct is horrible

Mack on August 30, 2020:

I forgot to add that everyone loves the look of the satin finish in my part of the woods (west coast,) but it's the feel to the hand over the finish that is not preferred, or should I say the "touch." If you are spraying and want a finer finish in a waterbased topcoat, most people successfully complete covert over to the Pro Industrial Waterbased Alkyd Urethane line, the sheen is called low-gloss, which is not a good product to brush and roll. It is more of a professional line, whereas the Emerald is more of a DIY line.

Matt G. (author) from United States on August 30, 2020:

I use Graco sprayers. I'm not familiar with the Wagner sprayer you mentioned, but airless sprayers can usually handle enamel. If you have problems atomizing the enamel you can thin it. Either size tip is fine, but for doors, the 310 tip is better. I use a 310 tip for my cabinet painting projects.

Allie Hunter on August 30, 2020:

I will be painting my kitchen cabinets with Emerald using a Wagner pro 130 airless sprayer. Is Emerald too thick for this airless? Will a 210 or 310 tip

Matt G. (author) from United States on August 28, 2020:

The 400 grit didn't ruin anything, you're fine. I would use 220 to sand the primer and 320 for the enamel if you sand between coats.

Adriana op 28 Augustus 2020:

Thank you for this article, so much useful information! I just wish I found it earlier as I already painted the first coat on some of my cabinet doors.

In general, I think I did a good job preparing my doors. I used AquaCoat to fill the grain and two coats of BIN shellac primer but I think I messed up the sanding part. I used 400 grit sandpaper in between primer coats, will that affect the final result? Should I sand with again the remaining doors with a 220?

Thanks a lot!

Matt G. (author) from United States on August 26, 2020:

Dankie vir die deel. I sprayed this product a lot and haven't had any complaints about the satin finish or experienced any gritty texture with it. The finish is more dull than semi-gloss which some folks might not like. But the semi-gloss is extremely glossy and had a plastic look to it when I used it before. The customer wished she would have used satin because the finish was too shiny for her liking. It all boils down to personal preference.

Mack on August 25, 2020:

I hear all day long how the finish of Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel in a Satin sheen, has a gritty finish. That unfortunately is the nature of the product. The flattening agents used in the product are what is contributing to some of the texture that you feel. I've had a lot of people not like the product because of it, both homeowners and cabinet finishers alike. The semi-gloss does not have the same issues.

Matt G. (author) from United States on August 22, 2020:

Sonny,

I've never sprayed with the handheld sprayer you used, but those sprayers have very small pumps. The pump likely isn't powerful enough to atomize the enamel into a fine finish. This is why you were getting the uneven spray pattern. The enamel is thick. You can try thinning it, or use a different sprayer. The pin hole texturing is from laying it on too thin. Emerald urethane is a little tricky to spray. Pro Classic acrylic enamel is easier to spray.

Sonny on August 19, 2020:

I used a Graco Ultimate (corded handheld) with a 210 tip to spray my cabinet doors. At first, by mistake, I used Emerald interior latex. The finish was near perfect!! I had the gun set to a 7. I later realized and switched to the Emerald urethane enamel. I initially tried the 210 tip and same speed, but the finish was very gritty like it had pieces of sand in it, almost like I was getting trails overlapped into sections. I’m not sure. So, I switched the tip to a 212 and it turned out even worse, very orange peely. I then turned the speed up to 10, the finish was better, but now there are pin holes and the tip tends to spit a little towards the end. Also, to be clear I sanded the finish smooth and started fresh each time. What am I doing wrong!!??

Mack op 10 Augustus 2020:

So... I dunno if you are aware, but regardless of they "hybrid" technology, any water based paint, is going to fully cure after 30 days. There is a difference in dry time and cure time. Dry time means you can recoat or handle it. Cure time means when all of the polymeres have finally set or linked into their place. So, the dry time (which means to-the-touch,) but not the cure time (which is when the paint fully hardens,) needs to be taken into account. Lacquers have the best turnover time, but even an alkyd (oil-based) paint is still going to take at least 2 weeks to cure (final hardness,) that includes Emerald Urethane Enamel. The water base makes it dry fast, the alkyd base makes it level out, and the Urethane base makes it dry harder. You are still looking at about 30 days to cure. So if you are noticing a fingernail test after a few days, imagine what it will do in 30!

Matt G. (author) from United States on July 27, 2020:

Leah,

If you're brushing and rolling the vanity, one gallon would probably be fine. Don't use latex primer unless it's already painted and in good condition. Use oil-based primer if it's unpainted oak. I would advise against tinting the oil primer too. You can only use up to 2 ounces of colorant for oil primer, in most cases, but even following the specs, I've had problems tinting oil. The colorant impacts the dry time and the durability. In my experience, the primer doesn't stick to the surface as good as without colorant. It will take an extra coat of your navy enamel to cover over the white primer, but you won't have any durability problems.

Leah on July 27, 2020:

I was wondering how much of this paint to buy for a small bathroom vanity? I'm going to be using a navy color over oak but I plan to use primer first and am considering tinting the primer as well.

Matt G. (author) from United States on July 26, 2020:

Mike,

The problem is the latex primer that was used on the cabinets. As you've learned, latex primer doesn't seal over tough stains and tannin. It also dries too soft for use as an undercoat on unpainted cabinets. Top coats of enamel over latex primer on unpainted wood results in a soft, unsealed finish, that isn't durable.

For unpainted cabinets, the store employee should have recommended their version of BIN, which is a white pigmented shellac primer, or their interior oil-based primer called Pro Block. If the cabinets would have been primed with either of those products, or BIN, the finish would be hard and durable without the fingerprint problem.

Another potential problem is over-thinning the paint. It's possible you thinned it with too much water, which reduces durability as well, but the latex primer for sure is the problem.

Another consideration is the paint color. You didn't mention if the color was white, or a darker color. If the paint was tinted to a dark color this slows down the cure time a lot. All of these things combined can cause problems.

If it were me, I would strip the cabinets and start over with BIN primer, or an oil-based primer, followed by two coats of the enamel, otherwise the cabinets won't be durable with that latex primer underneath.

Emerald urethane dries to a hard and washable finish when applied over the primer I mentioned. I would also spray it with an airless sprayer, which requires no thinning. When sprayed between 2,000 to 2,500 PSI, using the right size fine finish tip, the enamel lays out nice. I've sprayed it multiple times.

Matt G. (author) from United States on July 26, 2020:

Thank you for the comment. I'm glad to hear my article helped you with the project. Yes, their paint sales can save you a lot of money. Their blue bucket sale is the big one. I load up on supplies when they run that sale a couple times per year.

Mike on July 24, 2020:

Thanks for the info Matt. We just finished spraying (older Wagner HVLP) our cabs with SW Emerald urethane and I wanted to share a few observations. First, I do not recommend the SW water-based primer that is marketed by SW alongside this paint. Although we did a good job cleaning the cabs, there are always going to be small areas with gunk that will bleed through, and the water based primer was terrible in this regard. The most used cab fronts had bleedthrough spots so I went and got a quart of BIN (shellac-based) and it sealed them up well. Second, although water-based has advantages, the cure time is just too long... I needed to thin this (5% max allowed according to SW) to get it to spray well, and our cabs still fail the fingernail test 10 days after spraying the last coat. I'm worried. One of our girls touched her toes to the side of the island 5 days after painting, and her prints are still there... Despite being 10 days out, if you rub a thumb (with some force, but not too hard), the semi-gloss finish is gone forever. This stuff is just too tacky for how long it has been.

Alejandra on July 24, 2020:

Dankie vir die inligting. I actually just spray painted my kitchen cabinets using the Wagner sprayer and the SW Emerald paint you just mentioned.

It's the first time using this paint and also a sprayer. I'm a homemaker and I loved the finish.

It is exactly as you described. Tomorrow I'll be putting everything together, including the new hardware.

I did sign up for the Perks account to save money, and I was lucky that during the last week of painting they were running a sale.

Thank you again!

Matt G. (author) from United States on July 09, 2020:

I would recommend Emerald urethane enamel over Super Paint. The enamel dries harder. Super Paint is good for walls. I wouldn't use it on cabinets.

Emerald or SuperPaint? on July 09, 2020:

I’ve seen you recommend both in your articles (I’m not wanting to use ProClassic because I am an amateur painter and I’ve heard it’s difficult to use). Would you suggest Emerald Urethane or SuperPaint for painting oak wood cabinets?

Dankie!

Jessica on July 09, 2020:

I had my cabinets professionally painted with this product recently (sprayed) and they are definitely NOT passing the fingernail test. They scratch easily with a fingernail after over a week. Also, there's small amounts of caulk accumulated in all the corners of my shaker cabinets making them look kinda rounded. Should I be worried about the scratching of the paint or give it more time to cure? Should I be asking them to fix caulk? I don't know if I'm being unrealistic about the shaker edges being perfectly square and crisp.

Matt G. (author) from United States on June 21, 2020:

Freddy,

I believe the aerosol version performs the same as far as sealing and priming, but I can't confirm this one hundred percent. I have used the aerosol version to do spot priming for various projects and the finish is different than spraying through an airless. I wouldn't use the aerosol can to spray primer over all of your cabinets. The finish will be less smooth than if you were to spray through an airless with high atomization. You're also going to need multiple cans. The tips on these cans clog more too in my experience.

Matt G. (author) from United States on June 21, 2020:

Kevin,

I use a Titan 440 Impact and a Graco GX-19 Finish Pro for cabinet painting. One is for spraying primer and the other for paint. I wrote two articles about each of those sprayers. Check out my articles list if you'd like to read my reviews about them.

Freddy Belt on June 20, 2020:

Is it OK to use the aerosol version of the BIN shellac? Is it the same thing that using the regular one with my airless sprayer? I dont want to use my airless sprayer with oil paints for now.

Kevin Wunschel on June 20, 2020:

Matt,

I want to paint my kitchen cabinets. What type of airless sprayer did you use with Emeralds urethane paint?

Matt G. (author) from United States on June 17, 2020:

Joseph,

If the paint on your cabinets is in good condition with no signs of corrosion or peeling you can scuff sand and apply the new coating, but I would lean more towards applying a latex bonding primer first to ensure a solid bond. It's up to you. If you're asking if you can use the cabinet paint on the drywall, yeah you can, but the wall should be sanded down first if it's glossy and primed with a latex bonding primer before painting it. The cabinets should be cleaned and scuff sanded before you prime and paint.

Matt G. (author) from United States on June 17, 2020:

Kimber,

Sand the boxes with 220-grit to prevent scratching the wood. You don't have to sand it down to the bare wood, just enough to remove the lacquer. You can use coarser sandpaper if there's a thicker lacquer coating on the boxes. Priming with Pro Block oil primer is good, or BIN. I would use a micro fiber roller instead of a foam roller. The foam roller sometimes leaves bubbles in the paint for some reason. Sand between coats.

joseph halstead on June 16, 2020:

Hi Matt,

I have metal cabinets from the 50s-60s. They are still in good condition and I'm painting them. I used a Muralo latex product when I last painted them 12 years ago. Was gonna use Emerald Urethane this time. I assume I simply need to clean them and then use a 220 sandpaper. And then apply two coats. Just making sure there's no need to do anything else to the cabinets prior to painting. Then we also wanted to paint a wall in the kitchen with the same color paint. Could I use the same paint on this previously painted drywall wall? thanks for your help.

Kimber on May 26, 2020:

Hi Matt,

I am prepping to finally get to painting my new cabinet doors. I've kept the old cabinet boxes, as I completely remodeled my home and was trying to save where I could - I will be cleaning and sanding the boxes but the doors are unfinished pine/MDF ready for paint. I plan to paint with a foam roller (I know spraying is preferred, but my schedule doesn't allow me to rent a sprayer without having to return it immediately after without fear of keeping it for the next three weeks) and sand using my B&D Mouse, using the Sherwin Williams ProBlock and Sherwin Willians Emerald Urethane (when the 40% off rolls around again). What foam roller & sandpaper grit would you recommend? Is there anything else I should consider to try to make the best of the hours I'll be putting in to this?

Really appreciate all of your articles.

Michael Peyton op 23 Mei 2020:

Thanks again for your help Matt.

I really hope this helps someone else avoid the same headache.

I had reservations when I saw her mess up tinting the first batch. I wish I would have went with my gut and just used untintec BIN.

I will sand everything down to bare wood, reprime with nontinted BIN, and reapply the Emerald.

Matt G. (author) from United States on May 23, 2020:

At this point, the finish and bond was comprised by over-tinting the BIN primer. The person at the store didn't know what they were doing and unknowingly overloaded it. The powder you're seeing is the extra colorant that separated from the pigment in the shellac. This primer doesn't react well with tint and can only be tinted with a max of 2 ounces of universal colorant. I looked up the specs to confirm and I was correct in my previous reply. I've had problems tinting BIN before so now I don't do it anymore, even with deep base colors.

The tinting issue is your main problem, but it's probably also too hot and humid in the garage.Try to control the air better with a small portable AC unit with fans and exhaust so the fumes are being filtered out and fresh air coming in.

Sand off the primer and paint and start over with either no tint in the primer, or no more than 2 ounces of colorant per the specs. If it were me, I wouldn't even tint the primer at all. It sucks to have to start over, but at least you'll feel confident the project will be done right the second time without bonding issues or a soft finish. I also highly recommend spraying instead of rolling. You can get a nice even finish and it's a lot faster.

Michael Peyton op 23 Mei 2020:

Thanks so much for your help Matt.

It looks like I have all of those things you mentioned in your response.

-Paint color is black so the base is Ultra Deep.

-I’m doing this in a garage and it has rained a lot in the last 10 days. The temp here in Nashville, Tennessee has been in the 70s for the most part.

-The primer was tinted - I’m not sure how much they put in, but it’s gray not white. The person at Lowes tinting it messed up the first batch and had to tint a new can. I’m not confident that it was tinted to spec and is actually causing the issue.

-I don’t have a wet mil gauge but when I rolled the first coat it didn’t cover the gray primer completely. That should be under 4 mils but I could have applied the other two coats thicker. With a 1/4” nap there was only a very small texture when wet.

I’m afraid it’s the primer.

I performed a scrape test with a paint scraper this morning. The Emerald peeled and rolled away from the primer without too much effort. Scraping the primer resulted in “primer” dust. Last night I painted a piece of plain plywood with two coats of Emerald. Scraping it this morning resulted in peeling but it seemed noticeably harder. Sanding with 220 of both the primed and unprimed pieces results in “rolls” not “dust”.

I set a small ceramic heater at 85 degrees with a oscillating fan in hopes that will help harden the paint a bit faster. Considering the possibility of the primer being tinted too much, do you feel this is all for naught and I should just sand everything down to the bare wood or do you still think I need to wait it out for another few days?

Matt G. (author) from United States on May 23, 2020:

Coating thickness and air temp is important. Using a wet mil gauge is very helpful. When I started using one, I was surprised to see I was spraying a lot heavier than I thought. A coating thickness of 4 wet mils is what you want. Beyond 4 mils, the enamel dry time slows down.

You didn't mention the color, but that also plays a role in dry time. White colors dry very fast. I can handle a white cabinet door the next day without leaving marks in the finish. Deep base and ultra deep base colors take longer to dry because there's a lot more tint in the enamel. The excessive colorant slows the drying.

If the BIN primer was tinted too, especially beyond the recommended specs, which I believe is 2 ounces of colorant, this can also slow the drying a lot and cause problems.

Air temperature and humidity also impacts drying. If it's hot and humid, or too cold, this matters.

So the reason is either excessive colorant from deep base color needs more time to dry, the primer was over-tinted, the enamel was applied thicker than you think, or it's the air temp.

Hybrid enamel takes longer to cure than straight acrylic enamel. You applied three coats. All you can do is leave it alone and let it cure.

Michael Peyton on May 22, 2020:

Adding to my previous post - I used a 4.5” Purdy 1/4” nap micro fiber roller. Coats were not heavy - and I waited 24 hours between coats of Emerald and 72 hours of drying time after the last coat to handle the cabinets.

Michael Peyton on May 22, 2020:

I built two cabinets with 19mm Baltic Birch plywood. I applied 3 coats of Emerald Urethane over 2 coats of Bin Shellac based Primer sanding with a 220 between each coat. The finish “was” flawless. However even after 72 hours of drying time (with a fan as well) it is still “soft” with noticeable “give” and a slight stickiness when you press hard with your hand. I flipped the 125 pound cabinet over to paint the front. The entire back face was supported on a slightly textured floor for 20-30 minutes. Something told me to check it - so I flipped the cabinet over and the texture had transferred to my flawless finish. I checked the primer - it has bonded to the plywood as expected. What do you think the issue is?

Matt G. (author) from United States on May 07, 2020:

I'm not sure what you mean by "lines" in the coating. If the sprayer wasn't atomizing the paint correctly then your spray fan could have left tails on the edges of it. You can wet sand them out and spray another coat. Other possible causes could be not spraying in one direction, keeping a wet edge. That would cause flashing, especially if it's a darker color.

Hacemakes op 7 Mei 2020:

Hi Matt, I've just finished the second coat of my cabinets with the SW Emerald Urethane in semi gloss. It worked really well but in certain light, I'm noticing lines in my work. I used an inexpensive HVLP sprayer from Wagner to apply the paint. Is there an easy fix for this and/or do you think applying a third coat would do the trick? Any advice to prevent this from happening again on the final coat? Thanks for the original post. It was very helpful in determining the right paint for my project!

Matt G. (author) from United States on April 30, 2020:

The semi-gloss finish of this product is very shiny. You probably wouldn't like it if you don't want the extra sheen on your cabinets. Unless you plan on cleaning the cabinets a lot, the satin finish is fine. The satin finish is less glossy, but not dull like flat paint. When I used this product, most of my customers chose the satin finish and were very pleased with the sheen. The level of sheen also depends on prep and the number of coats too. Two coats of primer and two coats of paint enhances the gloss. If you were to only prime one coat and paint one coat, the finish will be less shiny, so that could explain some people saying the satin finish looks flat. With one coat, it's more dull. I definitely recommend two coats each of primer and paint for durability. It makes a big difference at the end. You want some gloss on the cabinets for easier cleaning.

Mandy op 29 April 2020:

Matt G, I am thinking of using this paint for my cupboards, but like you, I have heard mixed reviews about the satin sheen. I have heard that it tends to look flat. I would prefer the look of satin. Do you feel like the semi gloss isn’t as shinny and possibly looks like a Satin normally looks? I want to try to avoid a lot of shine on my cupboards.

Matt G. (author) from United States on April 13, 2020:

Melissa,

I think you're referring to the latex Extreme Bond primer from Sherwin Williams. If the cabinets are already painted that primer's fine, but if they're not painted, it's best to use an oil-based primer sealer, or white shellac primer, on the cabinets. Either one seals wood.

Melissa on April 12, 2020:

Hello! Thanks for the nice article, I’m about to paint my cabinets. sherwin Williams website recommend a extra bond latex primer But I read here latex primer will ruin the cabinets which one I should use

Matt G. (author) from United States on April 08, 2020:

The Graco X5, a DIY sprayer sold at big box stores, doesn't have a sealed motor and cannot be used with flammable coatings like BIN. Most of the inexpensive sprayers sold at Home Depot, or Lowes, are the same.

If you use a contractor sprayer from Graco, or Titan, these have sealed motors and can be used with flammable coatings. I own a Graco 495, Graco GX-19 Finish Pro and a Titan 440 Impact. All three can be used with BIN.

Emerald urethane is thick enamel and the small pump in your X5 has to work harder to atomize it without the tailing. I've sprayed Emerald enamel many times with all three of my sprayers and never had tailing with a 208 and 310 fine finish tip. I use the green FFLP tips. I'm glad you found the spray tip size that works with your sprayer.

Dave Contant on April 08, 2020:

Great information in this article, but I want to make a point about the BIN shellac primer. I intended to use it, but the sprayer I have (Graco X5) says you can't spray "flammable" materials. The flash point of the BIN shellac is too low for the sprayer. I had to go with Cover Stain. So make sure your sprayer can handle the shellac. Also, although the Emerald Urethane application instructions say to use a .015 to .017 tip at 2,000 PSI, I couldn't get rid of tailing with a 315 tip even at the max 3,000 PSI of the sprayer. I ended up having to buy a LP (low pressure) tip to get a nice pattern with feathered edges.

Matt G. (author) from United States on April 02, 2020:

If the primer isn't coming off then I'd just prime over it with Cover Stain.

Victoria on April 02, 2020:

Thanks a million! I will use cover stain after doing some more research. This primer has been on for more than 24 hours and is not budging with 100 or 120 grit sandpaper .. Is there a trick?

Matt G. (author) from United States on April 02, 2020:

Yes, I would remove the primer and prime with either oil-based primer, or BIN. Start over with a clean slate. If the primer's fresh it should sand off easily. You could prime over it too, but if the primer on there now hasn't bonded good to the surface you risk issues later. Oil-based primer, or BIN, both stick to prepped wood really well. Both seal the surface and provide a durable base coat. Cover Stain oil primer is a good product for this. Yes, sand in between prime coats with 220-grit. Use 320-grit if you sand between paint coats to avoid scratching the finish. Microfiber rollers and foam rollers work good. I like microfiber. Sometimes foam rollers leave bubbles in the paint. You can seal the cabinets if you want just make sure the two products are compatible.

Victoria on April 02, 2020:

Thank you so much! I wish I found this forum sooner! So I should sand off the current primer then apply bin shellac? Is a certain roller best for this? Do I need to sand again once the primer has dried before applying the paint? If so with what grit sand paper is best? I think I read somewhere else here that you don’t suggest sealing the cabinets once they are painted if this and emerald ere is used? Appreciate your help so very much!

Matt G. (author) from United States on April 02, 2020:

The yellowing is tannin bleed. It's happening because the primer is probably latex. Use oil-based primer, or white shellac primer. I would remove the primer and start over.

Victoria on April 01, 2020:

Hi Matt! I currently have BM advance primer on my Oak cabinets and have changed my mind about their paint because yellow is showing through primer after cleaning with tsp and sanding with 120 grit paper first. I am painting white and don’t want it to yellow so I’m going to use SW emerald erethane as suggested. Do I need to sand this BM primer off and start over? What primer should I use? Again painting white and don’t want it to yellow. Thank you!!

Matt G. (author) from United States on March 24, 2020:

Thank you for the feedback. I'm glad you found the information helpful for your project.

Poper on March 24, 2020:

About to do all my cabinets with this paint using the extreme bond primer and emerald urethane on the laminated panels. On the wood surfaces I'll do extreme block with the emerald latex. This post answered many questions I had before I start. Great thread!

Matt G. (author) from United States on March 12, 2020:

No problem, thank you.

Cristina steadman on March 12, 2020:

Thank You Matt!

Matt G. (author) from United States on March 11, 2020:

You can use poly on top of Emerald urethane if you want. Sherwin Williams basically told me they wouldn't back the product though once it's top coated with another product. I can't really recommend a paint brush for furniture because I don't paint furniture at all. Purdy paint brushes are what I've always used the most. I like Purdy XL brushes. I've also used Corona brushes and like them. I know Wooster has some good brushes too, but I've never used them.

Cristina steadman on March 11, 2020:

. I refinish a lot of my own and friends furniture pieces. I’ve always used alkyd paint From BM or HD with a couple coats of poly. They say with Emerald you don’t need too , that it’s hard enough. Could I use poly on top if I feel like it needs it? The color I chose for my next project is a navy Also what is the best paint brush you’ve used for furniture pc, I know you use a spray gun but would like your thoughts on brushes

Cristina

Matt G. (author) from United States on January 11, 2020:

Did you prime first, and if so, did you use latex or oil primer? If latex primer was used, that's likely why the paint is coming off like that. Oil primer or shellac primer dries harder and forms a stronger foundation under the paint.

Did you clean and sand the surface before priming and painting? How long did you wait to sand the paint? I've never experienced any issues with this product sanding off like that with my process for prep and application.

I clean, sand, caulk, spray two prime coats, using BIN shellac primer, sanding between coats. I let the primer harden overnight, scuff sand, and spray two coats of Emerald urethane at 3 1/2 to 4 mils max, allowing the paint to dry overnight between coats. Emerald urethane has good blocking if you prep right and let the paint dry and harden up overnight before scuff sanding.

Shawn C on January 10, 2020:

I sprayed this on using the homeright hvlp. I thinned the paint 15%. It seemed to work very well. It dries a little rougher than I would have liked, but nothing a little 400 grit couldn't take care of.

Matt G. (author) from United States on October 27, 2019:

Oil-based paint is very durable, but as you said, the smell is an issue. Emerald urethane enamel, not the regular acrylic Emerald, is durable too. The enamel dries hard, similar to oil paint. It's washable for dirt and food stains. I'm not familiar with Pro Choice paint, so I don't if you meant Pro Classic enamel. Pro Classic is a good product. I've brushed and sprayed a lot of the acrylic version. On cabinets, Emerald urethane will dry harder and be more washable than Pro Classic acrylic. There's also a Pro Classic hybrid enamel, similar to Emerald urethane, but I've never used that product. Your painter should use BIN shellac primer, or oil-based primer.

Lindsey on October 27, 2019:

Hi, I am so glad I ran across your post, I hope you are still answering questions! So they are installing our new kitchen cabinets next week and I’m using SW paint. I’ve really been studying the best way to go about this as I’m not a painter and I don’t want to get it wrong! My painter always works with oil base paint but I’m sensitive to oil base paint for some reason and the smell is too over powering(I’ve remodeled lots of homes). Anyhow, I find the Emerald water base to be maybe exactly what I need for myself and my painter. Is the smell super strong and overpowering? I mean if so, I should just go oil base.

My local SW says the Pro Choice is what most painters use? It’s a lot cheaper but I’m curious if you have continued using the Pro Choice? Is there a difference in looks of the two paintsOr is it just the application is better for my painter? My painter has been doing this a long time but prefers oil. Is there a difference in the way they clean once finished? I need about 20 gallons and I don’t mind spending extra but I’d theres not a huge difference to the quality or the eye, I will go Pro Choice. If there’s not a big difference in the strong ness of the odor, I might as well go oil.

Sorry, so long, I’m just excited to find someone talking about my exact issue and me and my painter have a language barrier which makes asking difficult.

ALSO...if I paint my fresh cabinets with either of these pints, which primer do you suggest?

Thanks so much!!

Matt G. (author) from United States on October 10, 2019:

Cleaning and scuff sanding the SuperPaint on the doors before applying Emerald urethane is fine. That will dull the gloss of the existing paint so the new paint grips the surface better. You can of course apply primer too. Sherwin Williams sells a latex bonding primer for that purpose.

Vanja on October 02, 2019:

I am using Emerald urethane paint on interior doors, previously finished with SW Super paint in semi gloss. We are sending doors slightly. Do we have to apply a primer before repainting with Emerald urethane paint. If yes, what kind of primer?

Matt G. (author) from United States on August 09, 2019:

Yes, BIN shellac primer will seal the MDF doors for your paint.

T Cao on August 08, 2019:

Matt,

Can the same process (BIN Shellac + Emerald Urethane Paint) be used for MDF cabinet doors?

Matt G. (author) from United States on July 03, 2019:

How did you prep the cabinets and what type of primer was used? I've never had any problems with the paint coming off.

Pam on July 02, 2019:

I used Sherwin Williams Emerald urethane trim enamel for bathroom cabinets and the paint and primer both are gummy and come when you rub them. Any suggestions what went wrong?

Matt G. (author) from United States on July 02, 2019:

Tony,

Yes, Emerald urethane levels pretty good when brushed on. If it's already painted, you don't need to use primer. Just clean, scuff sand the surface, and paint, but if there's bleed through with the existing paint, use oil primer. If there's a big color difference that could impact the number of coats, use latex primer.

Tony on July 01, 2019:

Can the SW Emerald Urethane be brushed on?

I am wanting to paint an already painted base cabinet with it. I don't know what type paint was used.

What primer would you suggest?

Dankie.

Matt G. (author) from United States on May 25, 2019:

Brenda,

No problem. I'm glad you found the article helpful.

Brenda Grant op 25 Mei 2019:

Thank you so much for your help. I appreciate it more than you know. I'll let you know what happens down the road.

Matt G. (author) from United States on May 25, 2019:

Brenda,

A poly coat will harden the surface, but I've never used that product before so I'm not sure if oil or latex poly should be used. Oil is more durable, but you need to know one hundred percent what's compatible with the product on your cabinets. I would contact your SW store and talk to the manager and ask them to call their product hotline with your inquiry. My local SW store has done this for me many times when the store employees couldn't provide a definite clear answer about product compatbility.

Brenda Grant op 25 Mei 2019:

Just found the paint was SW Pro Industrial, Pre-Catalyzed Waterbased Epoxy. K45 T 1154, 6509-83984 Egg-Shell He did prime the cabinets and left them for 24 hours before painting. They were originally stained cabinets. Since SW recommends I wait 60 days before doing anything, can I after 60 days, put on a polyurethane coat? And if I can, should it be a water- based polyurethane or an oil- based? SW man says it should be an oil based. I know you must use the right based polyurethane. Hoping a polyurethane will harden the finish and provide a little bit of shine, just not too much.Thank you for your help here at this site. It means a lot to me.Wished he had used the paints your recommend. with your recommendation, I hope I can help the situation. Thank you so much.

Matt G. (author) from United States on May 24, 2019:

Brenda,

Did the painter use latex or oil primer? What paint from Sherwin Williams was used on your cabinets? SW has many paints for different purposes, some of which shouldn't be used on cabinets. If the paint is soft and rubbery, it sounds like a cheap wall or trim paint was used, or the cabinets weren't prepped right. ProClassic and Emerald urethane are good paints for cabinets. I use Emerald urethane. It dries a little harder than ProClassic.

Brenda Grant on May 24, 2019:

I am so disappointed in my newly painted $2200 kitchen cabinets. The painter used SW paint but as you said it is soft and rubbery. I don't know what type he used but it was the eggshell finish. I am just sick over it. I live on retirement pay and was so excited to get them painted. But alas, the finish is sad. I called SW and they say wait 60 days for the paint to set. After 60 days, is there a polyurethane I could put on them to add a little shine and harden them up? Thanks for any help you can provide.


Kyk die video: Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Review. Trim and Cabinet Paint


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